You have to be slightly keen to walk from Zamalek to Mohandiseen. You have to be super keen to walk there with a pram and a nine month old baby. It's hardly the prettiest of ambles, and one has to climb a rather torturous flight of stairs to cross the Nile, and navigate the Cairo traffic without the benefit of a pavement. At least, though, there is a rewarding view of Cairo's houseboats, a now endangered species.
When we arrived, slightly bedraggled, our initial glimpse of Samakmak wasn't the most inspiring. "Outside dining" in Samakmak's case meant tables under a plastic awning, but it was pleasant, at least. And although it was empty when we arrived around 2 pm, the place started to fill with diners over the next couple of hours.
In Samakmak, as far as we could see, there is no menu. You are ushered over to the fish, chilled in ice, and told to choose, the prices set by the kilo. We went for king-sized prawns and Sea Bass, and told the chef to do his worst.
As we waited for our fish, our waiter served up a selection of salads - not the usual Arabic mezze, but rather more original offerings, such as fish salad, and cheese dishes. When our prawns arrived, we rather regretted that we had only ordered half a kilo. They were simply delicious. Slathered in a buttery sauce, they tasted fresh and meaty. The grilled Sea Bass - 700 grammes - was also good, but perhaps less memorable. I slightly feel that all white fish tastes much the same. For which I shall probably be branded some kind of Philistine.
A good lunchtime place. Possibly an even better dinner place.
Samakmak, 24 Ahmed Oraby, Mohandiseen. Cost - approx 160-200 L.E. per person. No alcohol.
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